19 Apr
Location
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Days adrift.  Click here to see our best and worst experiences so far.
5016
Number of flights.  Click here to go to the itinerary page.
35
Bus, train and taxi rides.  Click here to see all posts relating to transport. (56 posts)
185
Miles walked.  Click here to see all posts relating to walking and trekking. (43 posts)
581
Countries visited.  Click here to see what we think of them. (14 posts)
15
Number of species spotted.  Click here to go to our wildlife page.
1157
Photos taken.  Click here to go to the photo gallery. (105 posts)
13288
Rainy days.  Click here to find posts relating to the weather. (50 posts)
63
Number of times scammed.  Click here to read all about it!  (2 posts)
1
Otters spotted.  Click here to go to our website about otters: amblonyx.com
45
 
...two travellers in search of the world's wildlife

14 May 2016

Antelope squirrel amusement day

Dry mountains border the plain

Dry mountains border the plain

18 April 2016

I’m naming our days after the best new mammal we saw that day (unless we didn’t). So we’ll see how we go.

Today we were visiting the Carrizo Plain, an essentially wild area of dry grassland and scrub in between two of California’s gigantic agricultural valleys. Bone dry mountains separate the Carrizo Plain from these valleys with their serried ranks of olive trees, cherry trees, grape vines, etc. There were a lot of signs up suggesting the drought and water shortages are a hot political issue right now. Given the vast scale of agriculture we drove past in the San Joaquin valley I’m not surprised – the thought of all these millions of acres of growing fruit trees turning into leafless skeletons must be horrifying to those who live and work here.

The Carrizo Plain is quite different, an apparently forgotten corner of California, it used to be ranch country but was perhaps not flat enough to be worth turning into mega-agriculture, so it remains a wild grassland scattered with the occasional ramshackle ranch buildings. Kinda ironic; the “plain” is really a valley only a couple of miles wide, and the “valleys” either side are seemingly endless dead-flat plains.

Carrizo Plain

Carrizo Plain

We are stopping overnight in a brilliant old-style motel called the Cayuma Buckhorn. I mean, okay, the room is fairly basic but perfectly serviceable, the staff in the restaurant are friendly, the food is pretty good sticky barbecue fayre, and it’s cheap. Actually, about half the price of any of the places we’ve booked for this trip (and of the boring chain motel from last night).

Later we went out night-spotlighting on the Carrizo Plain. Alas, the moon was shining so bright that I could have driven all the way without my headlights on. Why is this a problem? Well, a full moon is to mammal-watching what “leaves on the tracks” are to train-spotting. Predators and prey alike just don’t want to emerge from hiding when the light is so bright. We did see a few kangaroo rats and a black-tailed jack-rabbit, but nuffin’ much else.

Funnily enough, right outside the little (closed) visitor centre we saw our coolest mammal – the tiny-but-fierce San Joaquin Antelope Squirrel, which jumped on a grasshopper right beside our parked car and then devoured it.

Antelope squirrel hunter!

Antelope squirrel hunter!

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