21 August 2021
Today was a washout. We left early, so we could get to Landmannalaguar ahead of the day-trip crowds from Reykjavik. In the event when we arrived there were already a half-dozen tour buses, fifty cars and vans, and forty tents. There was also a strong cold mountain wind driving the rain at forty-five degrees. We walked around for fifteen minutes before deciding that any hike was going to be miserable at best and dismal at worst, then drove off. I felt a bit sorry for the tour bus day-trippers, who were stuck here for a few hours no matter what. The queue for the loos in rain jackets and ponchos was grim.We stopped in the car part of Sigöldugljúfur for almost an hour, chewing a bit of dispiriting lunch, but the rain showed no signs of letting up. It did give us a half-hour break to go and see Haifoss, a really beautiful waterfall on the way back to Reykjavik.
In the event it was lucky we wound up in Reykjavik a couple of hours earlier than intended. Because our hotel was all locked up. In fact, it closed down a month before we even booked it. The owner was… briefly apologetic. But certainly didn’t seem too troubled. He offered us a room in his cheaper hotel further out of the centre, but we decided to book somewhere else instead and headed back to the car.
When we got to the new place we’d booked online, they told us that the room we’d booked didn’t really exist and they were full. The receptionist felt bad and offered to help find another place. We stood in the lobby and searched. She made some calls, and found us a room at a place nearby. Which on further investigation turned out to not exist. Neither did the other two that we found online.
And then finally we scored a room at the Hilton Konsultat in the middle of Reykjavik. Perfect. And very nice too.
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