Today we drove higher still, up onto the altiplano above Putre which is mostly over 4,500m. Like being back in Tibet, although instead of the distant white Himalayas we were overlooked by the vast bulk of the volcano Parinacota. As far as I’m aware it has no plans to erupt this week.
It feels like we’re really in the back of beyond here. The only things we have to share the road with are huge trucks blasting along in enormous clouds of dust, heading to or from Bolivia. The landscape is complete wilderness except for the very occasional pueblo, nothing but a handful of tiny tumble-down stone cottages with a quirky little church in the middle. It’s also very windy and dazzlingly sunny, which meant that we were baked in the car and chilled whenever we got out. Interesting though it is to visit, this isn’t a place I could ever imagine living.
My absolute favourites were the Viscachas, though. With their half-lidded eyes and placid expressions they look as though they spend most of their time meditating, and they are relaxed enough that they weren’t bothered by us approaching within just a couple of metres of them.
I definitely want one.
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