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...two travellers in search of the world's wildlife

16 April 2011

Devil worship

15th April 2011

These Tasmanian Devils are great critters. They inspire a whole mixture of adjectives and it’s really special to be so close to them – anyone considering a holiday including Tasmania should definitely book at least one night at Mountain Valley Wilderness*.

As for my adjectives, well let’s see. They definitely look primordial, chewing away in the darkness with oversized jaws full of ill-fitting snaggly teeth. They are positively devilish with jet-black hides and burning eyes while they tuck into nasty red meat. And yet there’s something childish

about them as well, as they totter around in an ungainly manner with a head too big for their stumpy body and play tug-of-war with the carcass tied to a post. I have to admit to some revulsion, not only for the bloody shreds dangling from their chops but also the mangy and scarred state of some of the little beggars. So how can a beastie be both revolting and cuddly? Because these devils look like animated teddy bears, just the right shape and size. Okay, fingers would be lost in the process, but it would be so cool to give one a hug and tickle its tummy.

Conservation status: dubious. They’re actually pretty well protected in Tasmania and have loads of pristine habitat and no predators. But a mysterious cancer-disease has arisen in the last few years and ravaged up to 80% of the population in the north part of Tasmania. I must remember to ask Len if it has shown up here yet.

* – well, perhaps not the very squeamish if the idea of an animal chewing on a carcass bothers you. I say this because the people who were in the cabin next to us on our first night apparently asked for the meat to be taken away. Did they think the devils were going to come to their veranda for baby rusks? Anyway, this couple also cancelled their other night and left today, perhaps finding the whole experience a bit too rustic. Open fires and extra blankets when it gets cold not being for everyone.

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4 Responses to “Devil worship”

  1. I’ve been following this blog pretty much from the start and I’m really enjoying reading about your wildlife adventures around the world.

    I was lucky enough to see wild Tasmanian Devils several years ago in a very similar situation. It was definitely one of the wildlife highlights of a 7 month trip around Australia. It’s good to see devils are still surviving despite the devastating cancer that is sweeping across the population.

    I’m going to South Africa next month and I’m staying at several of the places you recommended including Marrick. I’m hoping for an Aardvark!

    Keep up the good work and safe travelling.

    Mike

    • shortclaws says:

      Seven months sounds like an epic trip around Australia! We’re already wishing we had longer than a pathetic eight weeks.

      We’ve been told by several people that even now it’s still only the eastern population of devils that the cancer has totally devastated; it has still reduced numbers in the west, but better genetic diversity in the western wilderness is probably making them more resilient – so you’d hope recovery will come in time. Unless of course the feral foxes in Tas move in and steal all the absent devil’s territory.

      Marrick was superb, but dress VERY warm for that night drive! You’re there in the winter so it’ll be even colder than when Maureen needed six layers on to stay warm. I’ve no idea where exactly your SA itinerary goes, but if you get a chance then Tillietudlem in the Natal Midlands is a wonderful place for wildlife (not just otters!) and our favourite stay in SA.

  2. Kylie Hodges says:

    Amazing pics, unfortuantely being a native Tasmanian, means eschewing “tourist” activities, so I have never done this. Hopefully next time when we’re back my little boy will be up for it!

    People make me laugh “take the meat away” what do they want the devils to do, turn into koalas and eat gum leaves?

    • shortclaws says:

      It was absolutely amazing, and the devils always come so really you could only stay one night (though two would be much better). As long as *someone* stays awake, you can’t miss ’em.

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