Alona beach
We took it easy today. Did nothing more than pootle along to Alona Beach on Panglao island, to see what the “resort” area of Bohol is like. Answer: it’s still pretty low key, at least compared to places like Kuta on Bali. Although compared with the rest of Bohol its an absolute bonanza of facilities, with multiple dining options, genuine cafes, and shops selling things you might actually want. Wow.
Yes, Bohol is an absolute backwater. We really did crash ourselves straight into the tropics, rather than ease our way in! And on our final day here, I think we’ve just about got used to that enough to relax and admire it, rather than be vexed by it. Just for example: there is absolutely nowhere to stop and have a morning coffee and a pastry except for the occasional little roadside “bake shops”. These sell several variants of the same soft, sweet pale yellow bread along with sachets of good ol’ “three-in-one” (a sachet containing mild coffee, non-dairy creamer and enough sugar to rot an elephant’s teeth). So if you set your heart on having coffee and a pastry for breakfast, you set yourself up for a grumpy morning. If you can get into the mindset of just seeing what might be available and try to enjoy it, you can relax.
Our one activity for the day was not until evening: a kayak trip up the mangrove-lined Abatan River in search of fireflies. The water was limpid and still, the night moonless and dark, except for the odd torch-wielding fisherman. The fireflies gather in specific individual trees, turning them into beautiful balls of shifting, flickering lights. All in silence. Although later on a bell began tolling with a metallic clang and this eerie sound poured strange notions into my head while gazing up at the shimmering lights in the mangrove tree.
We didn’t entirely have the river to ourselves. Sadly, there were also a number of motor boats taking tourists on firefly tours. The kayak people (Kayak Asia) have been doing it for years, but their popularity has been double-edged as it has attracted operators who don’t care about the peace and tranquility of the mangrove river but instead cater for tourists who prefer not to have to paddle themselves around. Bah.
Bake shop
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