21 Nov
Location
Home
Days adrift.  Click here to see our best and worst experiences so far.
2675
Number of flights.  Click here to go to the itinerary page.
35
Bus, train and taxi rides.  Click here to see all posts relating to transport. (56 posts)
185
Miles walked.  Click here to see all posts relating to walking and trekking. (43 posts)
581
Countries visited.  Click here to see what we think of them. (14 posts)
15
Number of species spotted.  Click here to go to our wildlife page.
1157
Photos taken.  Click here to go to the photo gallery. (90 posts)
13288
Rainy days.  Click here to find posts relating to the weather. (49 posts)
63
Number of times scammed.  Click here to read all about it!  (2 posts)
1
Otters spotted.  Click here to go to our website about otters: amblonyx.com
45
 
...two travellers in search of the world's wildlife

28 October 2017

Cheetah without cheating

Cheetah

Cheetah

19 October

The sightings book came up trumps again. The book at Namutoni camp (furthest east, and we didn’t stay there but stopped off to check the book and spot for banded mongooses) showed two or three sightings of cheetah in the past few weeks in an area north of the camp near Klein Okavi waterhole. So that’s where we decided to cruise around relentlessly this morning. First we went a bit further up the road to check on the lion with a dead giraffe we had found yesterday afternoon. Astonishingly the lion was still all on his own and the giraffe about the same – somehow throughout the whole night no other lions or hyenas had found out about the kill. Or this mean ol’ grizzled lion had chased them all off!

Anyway, two hours of cruising and we hadn’t seen anything else. I said we might as well head off, at least we gave it a good try. Maureen said: “oh! Cheetahs!” and there were two of them just heading towards a thicket off the road. They settled down in the long grass and we watched them for a few minutes, and unlike our leopard yesterday we soon attracted another half a dozen cars and trucks.

Posh tent!

Posh tent!

Interestingly, it became clear from comments that the local guides are well aware that there are cheetahs often being sighted around here. Even though a guide from Namutoni that I questioned yesterday said that “it was impossible to predict” where in the park you might find cheetah. No surprise: they keep useful info to themselves, to avoid having to share sightings with a swarm of tourists in their cars.

Last night we stayed at a bush camp called Mushara which lies just outside the national park. The contrast in the quality of accommodation couldn’t have been starker. Charming grown-up tent, candlelit dinner under the stars, good bottle of wine, friendly staff, comfortable bed, and even Maureen’s holy triumvirate: a full length mirror, that you can step right up to for doing contact lenses, with a socket nearby for a hairdryer! Of course, the flipside is that you are outside Etosha and have to be waiting at the gate at 6:20am if you want to catch the best wildlife.

Band of banded mongooses

Band of banded mongooses


Leave a Reply