21 Dec
Location
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Days adrift.  Click here to see our best and worst experiences so far.
5262
Number of flights.  Click here to go to the itinerary page.
35
Bus, train and taxi rides.  Click here to see all posts relating to transport. (56 posts)
185
Miles walked.  Click here to see all posts relating to walking and trekking. (43 posts)
581
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15
Number of species spotted.  Click here to go to our wildlife page.
1157
Photos taken.  Click here to go to the photo gallery. (105 posts)
13288
Rainy days.  Click here to find posts relating to the weather. (50 posts)
63
Number of times scammed.  Click here to read all about it!  (2 posts)
1
Otters spotted.  Click here to go to our website about otters: amblonyx.com
45
 
...two travellers in search of the world's wildlife

4 January 2020

Chital yawn

Okra curry

Okra curry

15 December 2019

Lunch has rectified the food situation. More good daal, but this time with an astonishingly good beetroot curry and a pork curry and an okra curry and a dish of sour stir-fried veg and chunks of roasted river fish. All ace.

We went out in the afternoon for another game drive, and to be honest it was low on highlights. There’s an accelerated kind of “familiarity breeds contempt” that happens with wildlife watching if you stay somewhere for 2 or 3 days to try and see lots of species. On the first drive you are happy with your first sighting of a chital or muntjac deer, and you spend ages watching and photographing the first Indian hare that stays put for a while rather than bounding off. But by the third drive you can barely be bothered to murmur “hare” to your companions when you spot one, or “mugger” (crocodile) or “boars” or “monitor” (lizard) or “sambar” (deer again).

Nocturnal civet

Nocturnal civet

So: Wilpattu National Park is full of beautiful woodlands and lots of wildlife. But we’ve now seen everything we’re likely to see by daylight except for elephants, and they were not obliging. It’s the wet season, so they just have no need to congregate at the waterholes yet.

Meanwhile our final night drive failed to show anything new either. We’ve seen a half dozen nocturnal species here now, but the “special” targets in Sri Lanka are the small cats; jungle cat, rusty spotted cat and fishing cat. Most trip reports include several jungle cat sightings and one or both of the others. We’ve been out three times and not seen one. It’s a combination of things: full moon, wet season and firecrackers. The full moon is terrible for night spotting around the world, for some reason nocturnal mammals just stay in bed. The wet season is bad because the vegetation is high and cats are small. The firecrackers are used to scare elephants out of the crops at this time of year, and supposedly they scare everything else.

Chital by the lake

Chital by the lake

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